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From Kanazawa to the Mountain Villages of Japan

April 8, 2025April 8, 2025, Japan
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After an unforgettable day in Kanazawa, it was time to trade coastal charm for mountain serenity. But first take a look at our hotel room:) While most of the rooms we have reserved will run you upside of $200/night in Japan, this beauty took us back a full $75! Kinda like camping:)

Kawazawa Station-picked up our toyota

We packed our bags, picked up our rental car a Toyota, and set off on a journey that would take us deep into the heart of rural Japan — winding through snowy forested hills, ancient villages, and postcard-worthy landscapes, ending with a traditional ryokan experience in Takayama.

The many Villages of Gifu

This was my second time driving in Japan, and after a few minutes getting used to driving on the left and navigating the narrow roads, it quickly became one of the most enjoyable parts of the day. Roads were well-marked, Kellie was calm and polite in her directions, and GPS was a lifesaver.

What surprised us most was the scenery — lush mountains, terraced rice fields, and snowy valleys around every bend. It felt like a hidden world opening up before us, far from the cities and crowds.

Our first stop was Ainokura, one of the lesser-visited Gassho-zukuri villages tucked in the mountains of the Gokayama region. With only about two dozen thatched-roof houses, it felt almost unreal — like stepping into a folk tale.

When this rock is free of snow it will all be gone from village in 20 days.

These steep-roofed homes, designed to withstand heavy snow, are architectural wonders. We wandered the village slowly, admiring the craftsmanship, chatting with locals, and ducking into a small museum that showcased how families lived in these homes for generations. It was peaceful, quiet, and deeply authentic.

Washi paper
thatched roof inside
actual paper lantern
Silk worm cocoon

Next, we drove to Ogimachi, the largest and most well-known village in Shirakawa-go. Though more popular with tourists, it absolutely lives up to the hype. From the Shiroyama Viewpoint, the panoramic view of the village below — with its rows of Gassho-zukuri homes nestled in a wide valley — is breathtaking.

They made an igloo like a thatched roof house-with kellie in it!
I think I see a steelhead
800 year old Chestnut tree

We strolled through the village, crossing footbridges, peeking inside open-home museums, and warming up with a bowl of soba noodles and a Bier, in a family-run restaurant. There’s something magical about Ogimachi — the way the mountains seem to protect it, the river that gently runs through, the smoke rising from chimneys even in spring.

shiraka-go
kitchen right in front
lunch-japanese noodles, fried tofu and rice

As the afternoon faded, we arrived in Takayama, a town that feels like Kyoto’s rustic cousin — full of old-world charm and mountain hospitality. We checked into Iroriyado Hidaya, a traditional ryokan tucked away just outside the old town.

From the moment we stepped in, everything slowed down. Tatami mats underfoot, soft lighting, and a warm welcome with macho tea. Our room overlooked a quiet garden, and after soaking in the private bath and slipping into a yukata, we caught up on our blogging and social media by the irori (hearth).

There’s a kind of stillness in Takayama that you don’t find many places — the kind that makes you realize just how loud life usually is.

From the winding roads of the Alps to the centuries-old villages and the warm hospitality of our ryokan, this day felt like a journey not just through landscapes, but through time.

Leaving Kanazawa was bittersweet, but what we found in the mountains — simplicity, beauty, and quiet connection — reminded us why we travel in the first place.

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Tim Graham

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