Prague, the ‘Velvet City’

 

We grabbed a quick eat and morning Starbuck’s on our walk to the hotel.  The sidewalks of Prague are not designed for roller boards:)  Beautiful inlayed bricks but rough to roll upon.  It was beginning to get warm already when we dropped the bags at the Motel One and headed to the Old Town Square.  Lots of tourists of all sizes, nationalities and personalities.  We people watched while waiting for our tour by Free Tours of Prague.  Our guide was Tate, a funny young man who had been here a year and was originally from Idaho.  Our three hour slow paced historically informative gave us the beginning we need to appreciate the city of Prague.  It is considered a ‘velvet city’ as it somehow avoided destruction in almost every European War including the Thirty Years War.

As you skirt around the corner and emerge from the small side streets into the Old Town Square it is an unreal site of history and tourists.  With groups at all ends it would be easy to quickly pass by but it is ever more important to stay and get the details of this medieval town square.

Prague was emotionally tortured during WWII and the control of the Third Reich.  This music theatre was turned from their house of government to Nazi control until the end of the war.  All of the chiseled composer’s are back on top in their rightful place including Wagner who the Check’s regretfully hammered off.

The Jewish Quarter while lively and Parisian looking was not always this positive.  The road to acceptance and safety was not easy and this ‘Ghetto’ is proof of their work.  While it is great that Hitler left the Quarter intact his motives were far from pure.  He was going to turn this area into a museum of an extinct race, and began by deporting over 100,000 Prague Jews.  They have slowly recovered to a vibrant and participant community.

A mainstay in the Old Town Square, Church of our Lady Before Tyn began construction in 1300 but was not completed fully until sometime in the 1600’s.  With that time gap the plans were lost so the two 265ft towers built separately are not symmetrical.

Took a few free tram rides today, had a difficult time finding a ticket machine and then we need coins rather than the paper money so prevalent in our pockets!  Guilt took its toll and we got change at a Starbuck’s of all things, here is the view.

So easy to get on/off and travel around the city rather than wear out our legs and feet, we have averaged nine miles a day.  The Prague Castle is not in the heart of the old town but rather looms large on the far side of the river just beyond the Charles Bridge.  Even though the aristocrates that would rule it have been thrown out windows over 400 years ago, it still served its purpose with a watchful eye on the inhabitants of Prague.

The gardens of are a particular beauty along with the commanding spires of St Vitus Cathedral rising to the heavens.  Immersed in the sense of what it was to live there from walking the Powder Tower with all the armor (LOVE the TBIRD designed one especially),

seeing the changing of Royal Guards, quietly walking through the  stain glassed cathedral and wandering through the Golden Lane.  This cobbled alleyway was between two castle wall fortifications, primarily for guards but later overrun by squatters, artists (Franz Kafka lived at 22 for a year) and the namesake, goldsmith’s.

Traveling down hill from the castle made us appreciate the tram ride we took to get up to it.  The Mala’ Strana area on the west side of the Vltava River has an eclectic charm with beautiful facade buildings to its varied cobbled streets.

Strolling through its shops looking at all the beautiful paintings amongst the tourist souvenirs it was odd to find the Lennon Wall.  It is a celebration to John Lennon and his support of the Czeck oppression felt during much of the 70’s and 80’s.

Just beyond is an island, Kampa Park under the watchful eye of the Charles Bridge, where a hand dug river was created to cause the flow of water so a mill and other industries could exist.  Washing of cloths happened here until the 1930’s.  We had a one of the most wonderful meals so far on the off beaten path on a narrow street that looked out of the movies, Tri Stoleti Bistro.  Our meal consisted of a bread and pesto starter (maybe better than that of Tom Taylor), Lesser Town schnitzel and potato salad, pasta with sun dried tomato sauce, still water with ice and of course a Pilsner Oberquel (Czeck brewed).

Satisfied we had found a great spot to eat we finished our time in Prague with a night walk back to our hotel.  So many people gazing at exactly the same sites as we were but much fewer than we encountered during the day.  Prague takes on a totally different feel at night; loud groups having their fill of the local Pils as we pass wide open pubs spilling out onto the sidewalks, youth sitting in circles on the Old Town square reveling in their discoveries of the day and planning those of tomorrow to the typical tourist enchantments.

We were sidetracked by a streetside stand crowded with patrons waiting on a dessert.  This consisted of a dough spun on a round wooded dowel over hot coals, cooking it to a delicate brown.  It was then pulled and immediately rolled in cinnamon and sugar, filled with chocolate, strawberries and ice cream.  So delicious as we continued our walk.  Our last day in Prague.

I have learned so much of their history and why their story is so important to understand.  We will return again.