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Graham T-Bird Travel
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Trecherous tranquility the Cinque Terra

July 10, 2016April 14, 2025, Europe Eurail
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Seat 8A and 9A from Rome to La Spezia
Italian countryside from the train

It was still dark as we set out of our little apartment to the Barberini Metro station.  A quick underground and we were in Roma Termini waiting for the platform to emerge so we could board our train.  Leaving Rome we sat back and relaxed in our more than comfortable train to La Spezia.  An orange juice and cup of coffee later we disembarked around 10:39 looking for our next regional train to Manarola. Unfortunately we arrived at La Spezia Centrale at the same instant as a cruise ship.  Massed into a train station that was built to hold half as many as we stood, we decided to hit plan B and just buy a quick ticket out and we will get the pass later.  It worked, eight euros later we were on the 11:08 heading to the Mediterranean Coast and Cinque Terra.

Manarola is the second of the five villages, our hotel at the top:)  We climbed steady for ten minutes and were greeted by Emily who quickly got us settled into our new cliffside apartment, a cool two story abode.

Vineyards climbing the hillsides everywhere.
Each valley has a little stream to feed the agriculture clingy to the hills.
Walking down the hill to the shores of the Mediterranean.
Our first view from apartment called Seabreeze

 

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Panoramic view of the Manarola harbor, when I stated no one was by me:)

Taking a cool shower, changing clothes we went down the hill to explore the little town.  Getting our pass we hopped the train to Riomaggiore the first of the villages.  Beautiful little town with not much of a beach or swimming area but had a few shops and restaurants for those living here or vacationing.  Because we purchased a one way pass we choose to walk the 1 km back to Manarola, first mistake of the trip.  The easy beach road was closed due to trail damage, it was level and right on the water.

The easy trail that was closed.
The start of things to come!
Riomaggiore as we begin to climb is beautiful.
They are not quite close to harvest but still look delicious.
Now we are climbing..started at sea level.
READ CAREFULLY! Kellie said this should have been at the bottom of the trail and not the top:)

The secondary trail is one that goes over the ‘hill’, straight up for one hour then straight down for another hour.  What beautiful views simultaneously with treacherous footing and all the way Kellie smiling through her crying eyes.  We had two bottles of water, just enough to make the trip although I believe we sweat out four.  It was a very difficult trail but had a fulfilling segment to it.  The trail led directly to our hillside apartment where we showered, changed and rested a moment.

Dinner was delicous

We took the evening trek down the hill to dinner at a fabulous restaurant overlooking the Manarloa cove.  Taking the first open table I was scolded and directed out, I need to learn the process of requesting a table.  Our service was great from that point on as we dined in the shade with a breeze from the Mediterranean cooling our foreheads from the thirty five Celsius heat.  I gambled a little and ordered Pesto Ravioli in Walnut Sauce, no disappointment in this selection nor was the pasta Kellie ate.  Finishing dinner we went to take a photo at dusk of the lovely town, we were met with a plethora of camera going others wanting to capture just that right photo with the shades we all see on the websites.  I believe we captured ours as well as spent some quiet time reflecting on our day.

We were not alone

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We waited as long as we could really not wanting to make the up hill trek to our bed at ‘Seabreeze’.

Eaten more Gelato than could have IMAGINED!
Seabreeze view at night

Rising leisurely we found a lemon in our courtyard that had fallen from the tree and placed it in the refrigerator for later, it created a sensational lemon smell on our hands.  We caught the 9:08 train to Monterosso al Mare’ wanting to meet up with my sisters Stephanie, Mari, our brother-in-law Dave and nephew Eric.  Hungry we jumped from the train to a cafe overlooking the beach and called them making our location known.  What a great plate of eggs, bacon, toast, a crappy cup of coffee and a cool glass of orange juice to start the day.

View from breakfast
A Cinque Terra garbage man, much different in Tumwater.
Met up with Steph, Mari, Dave and Eric, so glad to see them in Italy.

Reconnecting for a short time we set off on a beach walk through Monterosso.  Starting at the morning market was an opportunity to purchase a few things as well as some fruit for the walk.  A wide easy road gave us the opinion that the pedestrian path to Vernazza was going to be relaxing full of conversation and photos of the sea.  We bit!  Sweating, slightly out of breath we rested at a point where you are not sure if it is better to turn back and train to the next town or continue ahead as you are at the pinnacle of difficulty and will be rewarded soon.  Those stops and thought process happened no less than four other times.  The views were spectacular, conversation with family engaging and enjoyable as well as the occasional resident creating a refreshment stand around the bend.  The fresh squeezed orange juice was delicious and had a rejuvenated component.  We made it to the beautiful town of Vernazza, had some indulgences of food and drink, sitting relaxed on a stone bench watching tourists and locals play in the shallow clear waters of the Mediterranean.  A little damp we dropped off the train at our town to change ready to finish our exploring.

Montarossa church
The start of walk #2, so deceptively leisure.
Distancing Monterossa
It is getting rough
Fresh orange juice
Our first view of the town we are going to, Vernazza
Vernazza
Eric was always the first, waiting patiently for his elderly aunts and uncles.

Later in the day we finished seeing all but Cornigula as it was a tough walk up after so many other hills, the trust it was just there was not found so we chose to have dinner closer to home again in Manarola.  Saying goodbye to family we made our last trek up the hill to the Seabreeze apartment, timing ourselves so we would know how early to rise the next morning, we catch a 5:10am regional train.

Manarola from our terrace.
Manarola from our terrace.

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